Nanda Devi, the enigmatic goddess of Kumaon is an embodiment of a Devi and a mysterious mountain. Amongst the highest mountain peaks in India at 25,640 feet she can be temperamental from blissful to tempestuous. Nanda Devi remains the epitome of inviolate mountains surrounded by a ring of treacherous and high mountains within which lies a beautiful valley with the rarest of flowers and animals and within that another  ring of some of the highest and impenetrable sheer cliffs that stand like sentinels as if guarding an age old secret. The first attempts to scale her peaks were made in the nineteen thirties by Eric Shipton and H W Tilman two mountaineering enthusiasts who set out relying on the skill and instinct of a few handpicked Sherpas. Over two successive and punishing seasons they managed to find a way along the precipitous Ganga gorge into the sanctuary becoming the first humans to set foot on the base of Mount Nanda Devi. The sanctuary has been closed by the government since 1982, claiming that expeditions may destroy the fragility of what had previously been a self contained ecosystem. It is one of the most inaccessible places, a legend whose appeal has grown in a world where everywhere is seemingly open to travel — Nanda Devi is closed. However, if not into the heart of it, mere mortals can make peace with a chance of at least getting close to it.

Getting there Distance from Delhi to Kathgodam is 280km which can be done by over night train.
Kathgodam to Vijaypur via Haldwani is 180k
Vijaypur to Munsiyari  115km.

A nine day walk starts from Munsiyari the road head for many treks in the Kumaon Himalayas takes you through meadows, streams, snow bridges, flora and the most breathtaking views of the ranges.

Day one: Drive from Munsiyari to Darkot, walk from Darkot up to Lilam, the first camp site. You first descend to the valley floor to a village called Jimmighat right next to the Gori ganga river. From here you climb up to Lilam all along the river keeps you company and is mesmerizing. The sound of the water gushing is almost deafening.

Day two: Trek to Bugdiyar 16 km away. The path is narrow with the river just below and the mountain face above. You can camp on the meadow here or carry on a little further to Nahar Devi. A temple and a tea shop the only signs to mark the place. The camp site is two and a half km ahead but is most scenic with the river right next to you and a sheer rock face behind, the night opens up to a star spangled sky. A sight one never gets to see in the city sky.

Day three: A 14 km trek the next day takes you to Martoli. The walk is long but rewarding as you reach an alpine meadow at ten thousand feet. The path is strewn with little streams and waterfalls flowing across. At one point the path actually goes from under a waterfall where a tin shelter has been made in order to avoid getting wet.  After a 3 hour walk the valley opens up before you and the noisy river now is calm and serene. You reach Rialkot another village from here a few hours walk brings you to Martoli. It is from here that you will see The Nanda Devi for the first time since you start walking. There is a beautiful temple dedicated to Nanda Devi here.

Day four: Martoli to Ganaghar. First you descend the Martoli ridge down to the river to cross a precarious plank of wood laid across a fast flowing gushing river to quickly ascend again to another meadow the walk here is easy as the gradient is less. Flowers of every hue possible abound. Another ascent and descent brings you to Burfu, continue on the left bank of the river to reach Ganaghar a good six hour walk at an easy pace with ample breaks. Ganaghar is a quaint Kumaoni village just like Martoli. Small two storied houses made of stone and wood. Villages wear a deserted look in winters as most of the locals barring just a few desend to lower altitudes of Munsiyari and return every summer.

Day five: brings you to Nanda Devi base camp a meadow strewn with flowers the mighty Nanda Devi right in front and the Pachu glacier right below the summit. You are at an altitude of 13 thousand feet surrounded by a carpet of flowers.

Day six: Nanda Devi base camp; wake up early at 5’o clock to witness the sun rise, as the first rays kiss the peaks turning them from blushing pink to gold in a matter of minutes, as you see the whole mountain slowly bathed by the warm rays of the sun.

It’s back to Ganaghar for the night. Icy cold winds pick up by mid afternoon, so gear up adequately.

Day seven: Trek back to Rialkot, carry on further to Rargari and camp at a safe spot near the river. If it has been raining do not camp too close to the river as water levels can rise very quickly.

Day eight: From Rargari you retrace your steps back to Lilam where you can once again camp of carry on further back to Munsiyari.

What to pack

• A duffle bag or a back pack for your clothes etc.
• A day pack that you will carry while walking with your water bottle.
• Trekking shoes- ensure that they are broken in before the trek.
• Three pairs of track pants with at least one that is synthetic and quick drying, or three pairs of cargo pants.
• Three to four cotton T shirts a full sleeve sweater or a fleece jacket.
• Full sleeve down jacket.
• A pair of thermal inners.
• Four to five pairs of regular sports sock and one pair of wollen socks.
• Woolen cap and muffler
• Proper rain gear with a jacket and a lower.
• Water proof gloves.
• First aid kit.
• A thin towel that dries fast.
• Sun block and lip balm.
• One water bottle and a flash light with an extra set of batteries.
• Sandals or a pair of comfortable shoes to wear around camp.